Key takeaways
- A general inspection is visual and non-invasive — inspectors do not open walls or test what cannot be accessed.
- Sewer scope, roof, structural, and pest inspections cover the expensive blind spots.
- Sort findings into safety, deferred maintenance, and cosmetic before negotiating.
- Credits at closing are usually cleaner than seller-performed repairs.
What a general inspection covers
A licensed inspector spends two to four hours examining structure, roof, exterior, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, insulation, ventilation, interiors, and installed appliances. The output is a written report with photographs, categorized findings, and recommendations.
The standard is visual and non-invasive. Inspectors do not open walls, lift carpet, move heavy furniture, or dismantle equipment. They do not evaluate anything buried, submerged, or inaccessible. That boundary is where the specialty inspections earn their keep.
Specialty inspections worth ordering
A sewer scope runs a camera through the lateral line to the main. On homes older than about forty years, or anywhere with mature trees, this is the highest-value few hundred dollars in the entire process — a collapsed clay lateral is a five-figure repair that no general inspection would catch.
Add a structural engineer if there is any foundation movement, a roofing contractor if the roof is near end of life, a pest or termite inspection in regions where wood-destroying organisms are endemic, and radon testing in known zones. On rural properties, test the well and inspect the septic system.
Reading the report without panicking
Every report is long and every home has findings. A fifty-page report on a well-maintained house is normal. The skill is triage: separate safety and structural defects from deferred maintenance you were always going to inherit from cosmetic notes.
Focus on the systems with the largest replacement cost and the shortest remaining life: roof, HVAC, water heater, electrical panel, sewer lateral, foundation. Ask the inspector directly which three items they would address first — most will tell you plainly on the phone in a way they will not write in a report.
Negotiating after the inspection
Ask for fewer things and ask well. A request covering three material defects with contractor estimates attached gets a better response than a fifteen-item list including loose cabinet hardware. Sellers respond to specificity and reasonableness.
Prefer a credit over a seller-performed repair. Sellers leaving the property have every incentive to hire the cheapest bidder, and you inherit the workmanship. A credit lets you choose the contractor and control the scope. Note that lender rules cap total seller credits, so very large concessions may need to be structured as price reductions instead.
Frequently asked questions
Should I attend the inspection?
Yes, ideally for the last hour. Walking the property with the inspector produces context that no written report conveys, and you learn where the shutoffs and panels are.
Can I waive the inspection to win a bidding war?
You can, and in tight markets buyers do. A middle path is an information-only inspection with no repair requests, or a pre-offer walkthrough with a contractor, which preserves some knowledge without the contingency.
What if the inspection finds something major?
That is the contingency working as designed. You can request repairs or credits, renegotiate price, or terminate and recover earnest money within the contingency window.
Sources & further reading
- American Society of Home Inspectors Standards of Practice
- International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, Standards
- EPA radon and lead-based paint guidance
Figures and rules change. Verify current requirements with the issuing agency or a licensed professional before acting.